Welcome to Trail's Edge Rock Climbing Glossary A Aid Climbing The use of anything other than the natural rock features to ascend up the rock. Aluminum ladders don't count! B Barn door An off balance move that causes a climber to pivot on two points of contact. The occurring result looks like an Opening barn door. Belay To keep the climber safe by controlling the rope. Belayer The person keeping the climber safe by controlling the rope. Belay device Usually a metal device which the belayer uses to control the rope. There are sever types of devices, all of which create friction against the rope; thereby allowing the belayer to catch a falling climber Beta Information about a route. Specific moves, or holds that might not be apparent from the ground Big wall A long route that takes many pitches or rope lengths to ascend. Biner Abbreviation for caribiner, a short loop of metal with a gate on it to attach things together. Bivy A place to spend the night. Sometimes a ledge on the side of a mountain Bolt Metal bolt secured into a drilled hole in the rock as means of protection. Often accompanied by a hanger (an eyelet to which a carabiner can attach). Bomber a corruption of "bombproof" meaning very secure. Bombproof Very secure, unlikely to move even in case of catastrophe. Boulder a rock short enough to climb relatively safely without a rope. Bouldering To climb low enough to the ground to avoid serious injury, and with out a rope. Climbing a boulder. Usually more strenuous moves in a shorter distance. Bucket A big handhold that is easy to hold on to. Buildering Bouldering on buildings or manmade structures. Sometime the only place around to climb is building. You should get permission first. C Cam Short for camming device, removable, portable protection that helps stop a climber if they fall. Campus To work out on a campus board. Climbing moves without the use of your feet (feet dangling) Campus board (n.) a wrunged ladder like training device used to train for climbing. Originated by the Late Wolfgang Guillich, this simple device has been largely responsible for advances in climbing difficulty around the world. Caribiner A loop of metal with a gate on it, much like a removable chain link, used to attach elements of protection. Chalk White drying agent used to keep a climbers hands dry. Sometimes called "white courage". Chimney A parallel sided constriction wider than body width. 2. (vb.) to climb a chimney. Chipping The act of altering the rock by breaking it. Almost universally shunned by climbers, but still performed by those whose bodies and egos are too weak to meet the challenge of a climb. Choss Loose, bad quality rock. Crack climbing The act of climbing continuous cracks in the rock often requiring specific techniques and protection methods. Crater To fall off a climb to the ground. Also called "Decking" Crimp To grip in a way such that fingertips contact the hold with knuckles raised slightly. Crimper A small edged hold which is conducive to crimping. Cross through A reach with hand or foot that crosses the line of the other appendage. Crux The most crucial., difficult part of the climb. Dihedral A flaring rock structure shaped much like an open book. Downclimb To climb downward rather than upward on a climb. Draw Short for "quickdraw", a useful link consisting of two caribiners connected by a length of rope or webbing. Often used to attach the rope to points of protection. Drop knee A technique requiring the downward turning of the knee to increase reach efficiency. Dyno Abbreviation for "dynamic movement", a move that requires some use of momentum. (antonym: static movement). E Edge A small, horizontal hold. Also to stand on an edge with the corner of a shoe maximizing the pressure applied to a small area of rubber. Elvis leg The uncontrollable shake of a leg uncontrollably during a climb. Often due to a combination of nerves and over contraction of muscles. Also called sewing machine leg. Enscarfment A food break at the edge of a cliff. F F.A. Abbreviation for "first ascent". Often seen in guidebooks to list the people responsible for the route. F.F.A. Abbreviation for "first free ascent", first ascent that did not use aid gear. Flag To dangle a leg in a way that improves balance. Figure 8 A common rappel / belay device shaped like the number "8". Figure 8 knot Also known as the "double figure 8" or "figure 8 follow through". The most common knot used to attach the climber's harness to the rope. Figure 4 An uncommon technique to make long reaches that requires lifting a leg over one arm putting the body in a position that resembles a "4". Finger jam A specific climbing technique that involves inserting fingers into a crack or slot and increasing their volume so that they will not pull out. Also called a finger lock. Finger lock See "finger jam" Fixed protection Gear that is left on the rock for future use. Flapper A superficial injury resulting in a loose flap of skin. Flash Completion of a climb first try with no falls. Follow To climb after the leader had finished setting up the rope at to top anchors. Involves top roping and removing protection placed by the leader. Free Climb To use of only natural rock features to make upward progress on a route. Man made gear may be used only for protection. (antonym: aid climbing) Free Solo To free climb without any manmade protection at all. G Gaston A climbing technique that involves side pulling with an elbow pointed outward. Greasy Any Slippery rock surface Gym An indoor climbing facility consisting of artificial climbing surfaces. H. Hand jam A climbing technique involving insertion of a hand into a constriction and expansion of the hand so that it will not pull out. Hang Dog To repeatedly rest on the rope while climbing. Heel hook A climbing technique involving the use of a heel to pull down like a third arm. Hueco (wayco) a large indented pocket in the rock. From Hueco Tanks, a popular climbing area with many such features. J Jug A large easy to hold feature. Jummar A device used to ascend a rope by sliding in only one direction. Also called ascenders L Lay back A move requiring pulling with arms to the side and pushing with the feet in the opposite direction. Lead To climb starting with the rope on the ground clipping into protection points on the way up. M Mantel A climbing technique involving the transfer of upward force from a pulling action to a pushing action much like a child would climb the kitchen counter to reach the cabinets above. Mono / Monodoigt French for "one finger" pocket, a pocket in which only one finger can fit. N Nuts A flared piece of metal placed into a bottle neck constriction as a means of protection. O Offwidth A crack that is neither wide enough to fit the whole body (chimney size) nor narrow enough to hand jam. Notorious for the necessity of awkward technique to climb. Onsight A clean ascent with no falls, first try, with no prior knowledge of the route. Open hand A technique that requires a maximum amount of skin contact from the hand. Often used on slopers. (antonym: crimper) P Pinkpoint A clean (no-falls) ascent of a route on lead with gear pre-placed. The climber need only clip the rope into the pre-placed protection while climbing. Note: This term has disappeared from sport climbing terminology with all clean leads called redpoints. Piton A long-nosed, spike shaped, piece of metal driven into cracks for protection or aid. Plastic Common name for the material of which artificial holds are made. Pocket An indented climbing feature that requires insertion of appendages to use. Pro Short for protection. Pumped Tired. referring to the state of forearms in a desperate state, swollen and unresponsive. Q Quickdraw Two caribiners connected by a webbing or rope. used to link elements of protection. R Rappel The act of self belaying down the length of a rope to descend. Redpoint a clean ascent with no falls, placing protection while climbing. Runner A sewn or tied loop of webbing or rope used to connect protection elements. Runout Without adequate protection. S Sandbag A climb that receives a rating inappropriately low rating for the difficulty. Screamer A very long fall. Send To complete a route successfully. Slab A ramp. any climb that is less than vertical. Sling A loop of webbing or rope (see runner) Sloper A downward sloping hold. Smear The act of placing a large surface area of shoe rubber on a hold to create maximum friction. Solo Abbreviation for free solo, climbing without protection or aid. Sport Climbing A school of climbing that generally emphasizes shorter routes, physically difficult movement, and bolted protection. This includes gym climbing and competition. Stem Movement requiring opposing outward pressure much like a child climbing a door jam. Stick-Clip A method of clipping the first bolt (on a sport lead route) from the ground. By taping an open biner to a stick with the rope run through it, and raising it to the first bolt. T Topo A map of routes and their names. Top rope A climb that has the rope anchors preset at the top of the climb. In general this creates shorter falls than a "lead" Traditional/ trad / trad climbing Climbing that emphasizes longer routes and removable protection. U Undercling A hold that requires fingers to face upward rather than downward. V V ratings An open ended scale used to rate the difficulty of boulder problems. See "ratings" in the beginner section for a conversion chart. W Whipper a good size fall on "lead" Wired Describing a well rehearsed climbing sequence. Y Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) The most common system used to rate difficulty in the U.S. Most technical rock climbing is rated on a scale of 5.0 to 5.14c/d with higher numbers representing harder climbs. Z Zipper A zipper like effect as the ropes force rips out protection sequentially while Technique | Home wall