general guidelines

General Guidelines for Climbing

The following is a list of Typical Climbing rules, ethics, and considerations. Much of what is listed below can be found in any current guidebook. You can also contact the Access fund for information on local climbing areas. The access fund has put a lot of effort to keeping areas open for climbers, with our support and compliance to the suggestions below, we can help keep these areas open. It only takes one incident to create a negative image for all climbers. Crag access should be everyone's concern, not just the organized groups. If you notice someone doing something questionable, unethical, or just plain dumb; politely mention it to them.

The NPS (National Park Service) regulations effecting climbers:

The use of motorized drills is prohibited throughout national parks

Do not disturb natural or cultural objects

Pets must be on a leash at all times

Do not damage vegetation

Do not spook or disturb wildlife

General principles of Leave No Trace

Plan ahead and prepare

Camp and travel on durable surfaces, and existing trails

Pack it in, Pack it out

Properly dispose of trash (once packed out)

Leave what you find

Minimize the use and impact of fires

Minimize climbing impacts

Plan ahead and prepare - Plan on leaving no trace before you get to the crag. Bring along a small plastic bag for your trash, look around is there any trash (yours or not), if so toss it in the bag.

Camp and travel on durable surfaces, climbing areas tend to have fragile vegetation, loose soil or rocky conditions. Hiking can cause this fragile area to erode quickly; the easier a crag is to access the more traffic it will get. Try to remain on existing (designated paths) rather than the bushwhack short cut. Choose your campsite carefully. Use existing sites when possible, remain on grass or bare ground. Do not move things around to "improve" the site, if you do move something just put it back when you leave. Unload your climbing gear or packs on durable ground (rock, bare soil, grass) this will avoid crushing any fragile vegetation.

Pack it in, Pack it out - Bring with you what you will need, and take it back out. Do not leave garbage, fruit peels or other food scraps. Even if you bury these things they will attract bugs and rodents.

Properly dispose of what you can't pack out - You know, human waste. Try to urinate in bare ground so as not to attract animals (they like the smell). Use a cathole for solid waste; dig a hole 200 ft away from the trails, campsites, or water sources. Once you're finished, Cover the hole "completely" with dirt and disguise the spot. Pack out your toilet paper (using a ziplock).

Leave what you find - If you discover some interesting artifacts, items or plants leave them undisturbed, they will be there when you visit again, and others will have the chance to discover them as you did.

Minimize use and impact of fires - If you are cold at the base of the cliffs, wear more clothes or have some coffee. You should never build fires at the base of any climbs; this is an unacceptable solution. Use a stove for cooking instead of fires, they are leaving no trace.

Minimize use and impact of fires - Treat the rock with respect and care, it does have limitations. Chipping, or drilling holds destroys the rock - NEVER - change the rock to make it easier, or more comfortable. Use removable protection when ever possible. Consider local regulations and ethics when placing any fixed gear.

First ascents and Bolting
Consider the following guidelines when establishing a new route:

The impact on the surrounding trail or vegetation (will traffic damage the area?)

Always check to see it a route has been done already (NO RETRO BOLTING)

Are bolts really necessary, can removable gear be used?

What type of bolt to use (3/8 stainless steel expansion is standard at The New River Gorge)

Is possible to top rope the route?

Use camouflage hangers to match the rock.

Can the clips be made from reasonable stances?

Use stainless steel manufactured hangers

If you are working on a project, use an inconspicuous ribbon tied onto the first bolt

Power drills are banned on the NPS property

Suggested Conduct
NEVER step on a rope, always watch where you are walking. This is a surefire way to make enemies.
NEVER manufacture holds, this includes chipping, drilling, or epoxy. Epoxy is O.K. if it is used to reinstall a key hold. Never modify a route so you can do it, this is absolutely unacceptable.
ALWAYS yell ROCK when you knock any object over the cliff.
DO NOT hog a climb, if others are waiting. You are not the only person who has driven hours/days to climb, let others have some fun.
DO NOT cut down trees or ruin the vegetation
DO NOT steal perma-gear from routes, it is there for a reason!
BE Respectful of the locals, you are in there backyards, and home towns.
BE Smart, don't get on any route that you feel is dangerous
PARK as far off the road as possible
RED DOG Typical at the New River Gorge where some of the roads have only one paved lane. When an oncoming car approaches pull to the right so you have 2 wheels on the pavement, 2 wheels on the dirt.
KEEP you're pets on a leash at all times, and clean up after them
PACK out energy bar wrappers and any other trash you pick up
USE existing trails, avoid the bushwhacking adventure shortcuts